Siem Reap is arguably Southeast Asia's historical epicenter.

Nowhere else in the region are so many ancient wonders seen in one place, some dating as far back as 802 A.D. Travelers make tough calls everyday on where to go and what to see among all the tempting sights and sweaty tourists in Siem Reap—as we did!

Temple tours are usually divided into four routes: the small circuit featuring all-stars Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm (best for those with only a day to spare); the big circuit; the Roluos group; and others closeby, including the Banteay Srei that I found unimpressive. We saw these in half-day intervals.

See the back of the Angkor Wat and dodge the crowds

Here are ten of my favorite temples and sights in Siem Reap:

1. PREAH KHAN

What it is: A 12th-century temple once home to King Jayavarman VII and 1,000 Buddhist monks.
Why I love it: Gorgeous marshland setting, ruins are overgrown with trees, a less-crowded version of Ta Prohm

Best time of the day to go: Anytime

Location: Big circuit

2. BAPHUON

What it is: A newly-restored state temple built by Udayadityavarman II in the 11th century to honor the Hindu god Shiva.

Why I love it: Stunning architecture, historical significance

Best time to go: Early morning, late afternoon

Note: Must cover legs and arms before entry

Location: Small circuit

3. BAYON

What it is: The 12th-century state temple of the illustrious King Jayavarman VII. Some sections are being restored as of Sept. 2013.

Why I love it: Striking exteriors, mysterious giant heads, unlike any other temple

Best time to go: Early morning, late afternoon

Location: Small circuit

4. ANGKOR WAT

What it is: The Siem Reap's crown jewel and the biggest religious monument in the world. It's both a 12th-century temple and mausoleum of King Suryavarman II.

Why I love it: Impressive size

Best time to go: Between 7-8 a.m. and 3-5 p.m.

Note: Must cover legs before entering the inner temple

Location: Small circuit

Tip: The best views are at the back where tourists don't usually go. I enjoyed watching the sunrise more than the sunset over Angkor Wat. Also, stay away from the "helpful" people inside the temple, who may just oblige you to donate $5 each.

5. NEAK PEAN

What it is: A 12th-century Buddhist temple built on an artificial island by the awesome King Jayavarman VII (I seriously love this man!). The waters around it are believed to have healing powers.

Why I love it: Charming scenery, wooden bridge, unique setting

Best time to go: Anytime

Location: Big circuit

6. TA PROHM

What it is: The Tomb Raider temple where Angelina Jolie did her acrobatics. This tourist darling was a Buddhist monastery and a university back in the 12th century.

Why I love it: Ruins overgrown with trees, not heavily restored, breathtaking when without crowds

Best time to go: After 4 p.m.

Location: Small circuit

7. BAKONG

What it is: Siem Reap's first temple-pyramid constructed in the 9th century.

Why I love it: Rarely visited by tourists, one of Siem Reap's oldest temples

Best time to go: Anytime

Location: Roluos group

8. TA KEO

What it is: A Buddhist temple that began construction in 975 A.D. and passed through the hands of three Khmer kings.

Why I love it: Exciting (i.e. deadly) climb to the top

Best time to go: Anytime

Location: Small circuit

Note: Not for the faint-hearted or the arthritic!

9. TERRACE OF THE LEPER KING

What it is: A mystery. Was there even been a leper king? No one knows for sure.

Why I love it: Intricate carvings on the walls

Best time to go: Early morning, late afternoon

Location: Small circuit

10. BANTEAY SAMRE

What it is: A Hindu temple from the early 12th century.

Why I love it: Quiet and peaceful, a smaller version of the Angkor Wat

Best time to go: Anytime

Location: Near big/small circuit

What's not to love?

A floating village, cottages on stilts, our very own plunge pool, and some peace and quiet in busy Siem Reap. For the price paid—$150 for two nights in a deluxe pool suite—I was happy overall with the accommodations, service, food and location of the Best Western Suites and Sweet Angkor.

Pros:
* Personal plunge pool
* Decor and surroundings with a local twist
* Spacious room and bath (all 68 sqm of it!)
* Free airport pick-up or drop-off
* Free tuktuk rides from the hotel to central Siem Reap from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.
* Delicious free breakfast
* Unlimited bottled water

Cons:
* Location is about 20 minutes from central Siem Reap (a map will come in handy when guiding clueless tuktuk drivers)
* No other food options except those offered in the hotel
* Costlier than other lodging options in Siem Reap
* Nothing to do there at night
* Wi-Fi connection is hit-and-miss in some sections of the room

Tip:
* Check for deals on Agoda.com before booking. We got ours 50% off the published rate, including free one-hour massages for two, daily breakfast and airport drop-off.

The good

The resort is comfortable, elegant and clean. We had room 9A, and the room's 165-cm-deep plunge pool and cool interiors are a welcome break from the searing heat of the Cambodian sun.

We did not quite get the wonderful service that we got from the cheaper Reflections Art Boutique Hotel in downtown Siem Reap, but the service was prompt and hassle-free. The complimentary tuktuk ride brought us to any location we desired, and waited until we were ready to call it a night.

The resort is also surprisingly free of mosquitoes despite the swampy site.

The bad

Ants, ants everywhere!

Yes it's mosquito-free... but it's crawling with ants.

Other disappointments were the bad hotel massage and the under-cleaned plunge pool. The pool was only fresh on the first day and it got progressively filthier, until by the third day we had to compete against dead ants and decomposing leaves for swimming space.

The ugly

For two days, we used the hotel's tuktuk service to tour the temples for $20 a day—more expensive than the usual $12-$15. We were told, however, that we could use the tuktuk from morning until 10 p.m. and that we could go anywhere we chose.

That was not always the case.

The driver on the first day (name starts with an 's,' that's all I can remember!) was rude and unaccommodating. He attempted to dictate the tour itinerary and lunch venue. Unfortunately for him I had other, better ideas.

We had more luck on the second day with a new driver armed with a gentle smile and demeanor. Tip: The $20 fee is a only a bargain if you start with a sunrise tour of the Angkor Wat and end with a sweep of Pub Street  until 10 p.m.

4 OUT OF 5 STARS

All things considered, we had a great stay.

It's all about the jacuzzi. But the jacuzzi doesn't work—at least most of the time when it matters.

We booked a snazzy jacuzzi suite at the Reflections Art Boutique Hotel for two nights in September at a steal: $96. Cut-rate prices are, however, the norm in Cambodia and the thrifty traveller will find cheaper alternatives elsewhere in central Siem Reap (Map).

Pros:

* Soft, king-sized bed

* Impeccable service

* Unique decor

* Spacious room

* Free breakfast with lots of tasty options

* Free airport pick-up

Cons:

* Jacuzzi doesn't work after 8 p.m. or whenever it decides to annoy you

* Intermittent Wi-Fi connection

* No working phone in the room, so it's a walk to the reception everytime you need something

* Crumbling exterior needs a touch-up

* Far from the old market and the touristy area of Pub Street. We felt unsafe walking there at night.

* Surroundings can get noisy. We asked the staff to turn down the volume of the hotel's sound system and they kindly obliged.

Tips:

* Check for promo and early-bird rates on Agoda.com and Booking.com. We booked our room on Agoda for a fraction of the price published on the hotel website ($125).
* Try the delicious welcome drinks made of lime juice, tequila, grenadine, sugar and salt.

The good

You'd be hard-pressed to find rooms with more character and style than Reflection's. The funky little hotel's decor is kitschy, over-the-top, but earnest and entirely lovable.

Each room has a different theme. Ours was called Moody and it features graffiti on the walls and a small patio with a big jacuzzi that can fit up to eight people. We saw another room with an in-suite jacuzzi called My Secret Garden, which looked newer and more inviting.

The service was excellent and the bed comfortable. The staff always had smiles on their faces and went out of their way to make us feel welcome. Swan-shaped towels, flowers and a personal note greeted us upon arrival. Wonderful! They also lent us the hotel's brand-new bicycles for free, which we used to stroll around the temples.

The bad

The hotel is just begging for some polishing—a thorough one—which is a pity because the hotel holds so much promise. The furniture in the lobby, though cute, looks used up. In our room, the floor was filthy, the walls looked scratched and faded and so did the toilet. The bath is huge and includes a rain showerhead, but the clunky concrete floor floods after a few minutes in.

The phone doesn't work, nor does the MP3 player.

The ugly

Oh jacuzzi, how you tantalized and evaded me!

On our first night in Siem Reap, we arrived at the airport at 10 p.m., where the hotel's tuktuk driver picked us up, no problem, and delivered us at the hotel's doorstep within 30 minutes.

Excited to try the jacuzzi, we jumped in immediately, but it didn't work even after an hour's prodding by the staff. We were then moved to the My Secret Garden room but the jacuzzi in there wasn't working either. So the Moody room found us sleeping dejectedly that night.

The culprit: water problem in the neighborhood. It's not clear if this is permanent.

The next day, we left early for the temples but happily went home around 6 p.m. to a working jacuzzi. We were able to use it for about an hour and a half, after which we grabbed some eats outside the hotel. When we got back at around 9 p.m., the jacuzzi was dead again until we checked out early the next day.

3 OUT OF 5 STARS

We picked this hotel because of the in-suite jacuzzi, so imagine our disappointment when it didn't work most of the time. Still, I was impressed by the staff's attentiveness so I gave this hotel a 3. Without them, I'd give it a 2.