THE UNHOLY IN THE HOLYLAND SERIES:
EGYPT
Unforgettable Moments and Places in the Land of King Tut
Part II
By Ysabel Villaflor
2009
CAIRO: My Mummy Fantasy
Beige. From the buildings to the houses to the ruins- it was everywhere in Cairo! As our bus brought us around the city for the first time, everyone had their cameras out getting ready to shoot anything that presented something interesting. Cairo did not disappoint: glimpses of the Pyramids suddenly surprise you in different parts of the city, grand mausoleums of ancient times, beaten down old 70’s cars, camels and donkeys in the middle of the road, mosques and sounds of prayer, and Egyptians going about their normal everyday lives. It was so cool.
Egypt had a certain air of dangerous mystery to it. Maybe it was the way the desert was at night – quiet, dry, hot (42 degrees Celsius!): holding promises of adventure or the way the women peeked though their dark veils with kohl-lined eyes and dark abayas covering their bodies; or the way they spoke to each other with a language we are not used to hearing, or the fact that the grandeur of past civilizations are still existing and can be seen all though out the city as it had been seen for thousands of years, hiding secrets which are yet to be discovered. Yes, Egypt had its own little charm going on. And I was hooked. It was turning out to be The Mummy fantasy I was dreaming of. I can’t believe I was actually IN Egypt!!!!!
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| going around downtown |
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| Welcome to Cairo! |
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| glimpses of the pyramids suddenly surprise you in different parts of the city |
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| tomatoes and peddlers |
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| a neighborhood in Cairo |
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| intricate window designs |
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| going around town in an old van |
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| street food galore! |
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| Pita bread |
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| The Middle East serves the sweetest Watermelons! That's one thing I learned |
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| Nile River |
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| a camel in the middle of a busy road? happens everyday in Cairo |
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| strolling around the streets of Cairo |
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| taxi! |
moving a mountain
Racing towards THE PYRAMIDS OF GIZA and the Little SPHINX
The Pyramids of Giza were breathtaking at night – as our hotel, Sofitel Le Sphinx, fronted the pyramids. The pyramids at night had lights around it which display their glory. But there is nothing more breathtaking than to actually BE in the pyramids –touching it, climbing it and yes, taking thousands of pictures of it- which I never thought that I’d do in this lifetime. The pyramids were said to be burial tombs of late pharaohs and were said to contain the riches of their reign which they believed the dead would need in the afterlife.
I was a bit surprised about the world famous Sphinx- I somehow had it in my mind that it was HUGE, but for some reason, he appeared to be smaller than the biggest pyramid! Yes, I was a ‘little’ disappointed but still, in awe of the labor and the mystery of how it was built.
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| that's limestone at the tip of the pyramid. |
right on the pyramid!!!
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| this is Cheops' pyramid, the smallest of the 9 pyramids |
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| landscape view of the pyramids and the "little" Sphinx |
W.C. stands for Water Closet or Comfort Room :)
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| guards patrolling the Giza Pyramids on Camel |
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| mini-pyramid and the real thing at the back |
The BELLY DANCER, The Priest, The NILE RIVER Cruise, and Mr. Bean
That Egyptian charm was evident in a belly dancer who enticed the men on our tour to join her in dancing – during our first group lunch on board a cruise of the Nile River. Charming also is our Egyptian tour guide, Mikhael, who eerily looked and acted like Mr. Bean, had an obsession with the armrest (for our safety) and would often utter the words “Tayo na! Tayo na!” (“Let’s go, Let’s go”) when we were running a little late.
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| Mikhael, our Mr. Bean/Egyptian Tour Guide :) |
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| the Tanoura dancer |
The Egyptian Museum
Usually, when people mention the word “museum”, people often cringe. But this little museum is an exception. The museum is the opposite of everything that’s common about a museum. It’s dangerous, it’s dark, and it’s so full of stories of mystery, death, afterlife and love. I have never seen a museum so full of life that the walls speak. The place was filled with artifacts that were reminiscent of the past grandeur of Egypt. The fact that pictures are now forbidden to be taken while inside the museum is a sad tidbit on an educational mind.
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| the facade of the Egyptian Museum. the only thing you can take a photo of. |
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| My ticket from the Egyptian Museum |
ABOU SERGA
This was the first of many religious places on the road to Holy land. It was said to be the place where Joseph, Mary and Jesus stayed for almost 3 years to escape King Herod who was hell bent on killing The One. On top of the place now stands a church which was constructed in the 4th century. The only downside is that, pictures weren’t allowed to be taken while inside the Church. But, the streets outside and the peddlers of antiques leading to the church do give you a vibrant feel of walking on the streets of Egypt. J
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| my disoriented but excited face- it happened a lot on this trip |
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| antique stores were alive in Abou Serga streets |
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| tents to cover the streets leading to Abou Serga |
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| paintings to be sold lined the streets |
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| this was ontop the door upon entering the church |
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| the last shot before we enter the Church. No photos were allowed to be taken inside. |
Popping THE Question at a PAPYRUS SHOP, Learning an Egyptian Call at the ESSENCE FACTORY and Getting Some Egyptian Cotton Abaya
There are three things you have buy in Egypt: an ancient Papyrus, Essence Oils, and soft Egyptian cotton. Of the three, Papyrus is probably the most exotic and rooted in Egypt. That was the thing I wanted to get the most. Papyrus was the ancient Egyptian form of paper made from the Papyrus plant which grew on the Nile River. Though modern paper surpassed this ancient process, papyrus is still being made today in Papyrus Shops to commemorate Egyptian innovation. I was looking forward of seeing the process of making Papyrus- but what I was not expecting was getting a proposal out of it. Just what do you do when a dark, tall Egyptian man- a complete stranger- suddenly proposes to you? It was creepy but it was also funny.
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| the papyrus plant |
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| showing us how papyrus is made |
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| a few modern adjustments but still the same process. |
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| the finished product with a painting over the papyrus |
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| the painting could be customized by having the names printed with hieroglyphics |
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| on our way out the Papyrus store |
Essence oil is also a big part of the Egyptian culture. Most of the perfume companies in the world are supplied by the Egyptian Essence Industry. When we stepped in the factory, it felt like stepping into another era with plush velvet couches and glass vials all around us. Before we knew it, we were sniffing out more than 20 (or so) fragrance oils. And it sorta got a bit dizzy. But we did learn something very interesting from the Egyptian ladies in the factory.
Learning more than just about fragrances. We learned about making "calls".
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| sniff this out! before you get really dizzy |
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| putting areas on your arm for the samples |
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| buying souvenirs outside the Essence Factory |
One of the best things to buy in Egypt is Egyptian cotton. It’s the best in the world. Instead of buying bed sheets and pillowcases, my sister-in-law and I bought abayas, the local dress wear the women wear in the country. They say that the more intricate the design on the abaya, the more expensive the price. I wear my abaya to sleep. It’s so soft and airy that it’s perfect for Philippine weather that it also resembles our local duster.
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| the abaya |
Beautiful Marra
When the bus stopped out of nowhere, I was a little confused as to what was up. We were in the middle of transferring from Cairo to Sinai and we had vast areas of desert in the middle of it all. But when we stopped at this spot, it was a chance to finally step out on the desert. It was definitely something to actually be out there than just looking at it. It was something else.
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| a historical area |
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| The well in Marra Dessert. Water was said to supply the people crossing over from Egypt to Israel during the time of Moses. |
The CLIMB: Mt. SINAI, Waking up in the beautiful desert Morgenland Hotel, the Burning Bush in Saint Catherine’s Monastery
If there was one thing I regret during my trip to Egypt, it’s not being able to climb Mount Sinai. More than 20 of us raised our hands for the headcount for the climb thinking, “ kaya ko to kahit walang tulog!” (I can do this even without sleep!). But the 18-hour flight from Manila the day before, then going straight to the sites and an early wake-up call sure had its way of creeping up on the tired body. I had a feeling that I was going to fall off the camel if I closed my eyes. The fact that the climb was starting at 1am sure didn’t make the decision much harder since we arrived 11pm that night at Morgenland Hotel at the foot of Mt. Sinai. The 20 strong contingent dwindled down to only 4 (who we all call “The Four Brave Souls”). Ate Bernadette- my sister-in-law, was one of the 4 was wide-awake enough to go up the mountain and document each step of her journey up the mountain with her trusty video camera. (I will make a separate article about the climb)
sunrise on Mt. Sinai
the pit stop going up Mt.Sinai
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| the Four Brave Souls re-enacting the climb up Mt. Sinai |
We -those who didn’t climb, woke up to the sight of such a beautiful desert. We even had the chance to stroll around and shop at the nearby Hookah tents with shishas and Egyptian peddlers for Camel Bone and Turquoise jewelry (I got a turquoise ring which the owner of the store gave for free!). While we waited for the climbers to come down, we had mass at the beautiful resort hotel. Morgenland Hotel may have shortcomings when it came to hotel amenities but the scenery and location sure makes up for that. We were told that THAT was as good as it gets around the area. (Morgenland Hotel Review, click here)
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| the cross pool |
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| peddlers in Morgenland Hotel |
When the climbers came back, we left for Saint Catherine’s Monastery – one of the oldest working monasteries in the world having the second largest collection of codices (second only from the Vatican) and where the Burning Bush was located. I was amazed while walking through the monastery. It wasn’t with dark alleys and intricate designs on the walls, but rather, it was bright, it was sunny and in some ways, like walking onto a set from the very early times in Europe. It was something that shouldn’t be missed in Egypt.
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| Saint Catherine's Monastery |
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| found on the path to Saint Catherine's |
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| watch tower |
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| the bell tower |
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| the Burning Bush |
The long drive in the middle of the Sinai Desert
Egypt won’t be Egypt without the desert. During the trip, a huge part of it is travelling through it. The trip from Cairo to Sinai was more than 8 hours long and the heat of the desert at some point of the drive somehow affected the bus we were riding. But, one of the beautiful things about the desert is that, it’s so calm and unmoving.
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| this lonely guy is all by himself |
Should’ve Brought my bathing suit to the Nuweiba Village
One of the things I never associated with Egypt was the beach. If I had only known how amazing this beach was, then I would’ve have brought with me my suit and not wear my rubber shoes and cargo pants. We had our lunch in along the shore in the Resort’s restaurant and had a couple of “me time” after. The sand is yellowish-gold, with propped up umbrellas, a dock right on the water and a couple of camels. Yep, camels on the beach! It’s one of the most unusual things I have ever seen. How I wish we could’ve stayed longer to have a dip at the Red Sea but now, we were off to another country.
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| wanting to swim!!!! |
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| it was 42 degrees celsius! |
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| Lunch! |
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| a nice day for a DIP!!! |
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| right on the beach shed! It's beautiful! |
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| nice to lounge here on a very lazy day |
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| dock the boats here |
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| peddlers in Suntel Resort |
The HASSLE at TABA BORDER
The border was neither the best place to be. There were too few a porters for so many of us. The trolleys were almost broken from the luggage mounted on them. The good thing was, my brother and I carried our own luggage and didn’t depend on the porters who had no idea how to care with them. Piling the luggage on the X-ray machine didn’t make the situation any better. The porters just kept piling it on without looking at the other side whether it fell off or were taken by their owners. I was just right in time to catch my camera falling on the floor. Yes, they have their own quirks. It’s one of the things I wouldn’t miss in Egypt. But there are too many things to be fascinated about.
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| one of the last things you'll see before entering the Taba Border |
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| Crossing over to Israel. No cameras here. |
Goodbye Egypt, Hello Israel
After Egypt, I couldn’t help but think what Israel has in store for me… After crossing the border, the teaser was enough to get me excited. J
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the Sunset on the Israel Desert. What's up next? :) I couldn't wait.
Let us all continue praying for Egypt.
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THE UNHOLY IN THE HOLYLAND SERIES:
ISRAEL
Unforgettable Moments and Places in the Holy Land
PART 3
SOON.
Much Love,
Ysabs, Tin, Johanna
Travel With the Wander Girls |
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